For The Absolute Best Results Apply wax thinner than any other waxes you have applied. The surface should not be too cold or too hot. And out of direct sunlight. Work in small sections and don't let the wax completely dry before buffing. If the wax dries completely many of the newer softer microfibers just don't have the ability to buff the residue off easily. Some of the newer microfibers are just too soft, keep a good old well washed cotton towel handy to remove most but not all of the residue and return to using the microfiber for the remainder. If a long time passes before you get to buffing, just reintroduce new wax to the dried wax and start over again. Heat and humidity dictates how long a wax needs to bond before buffing and then to a full air curing. If uncertain about time to buff, test a small area with buffing at different wait times, 30, 45, 60, etc. seconds.

Again, if the towel requires too much pressure to remove the residue, it means the towel is not right for the job or it is too soft or clogged up. Have many towels handy, a buffing towel shouldn't have to work hard at all. Another alternative is the use of a Quick Detail Spray either directly on the surface or on the towel to remove stubborn residue. The only problem with using a Quick Detail Spray over a new coat of wax is many of them have additives in them that are meant to refresh and spruce up an existing coat of wax. On a freshly waxed surface Quick Detail Sprays give a look of too shiny, too wet or too deep which may not be the original look of the vehicle. The use of a non-abrasive pre-wax-cleanser is recommended to remove any contaminates found on the vehicles finish. The surface should be smooth to the touch before applying a thin coat of wax. Proper preparation of the surface can intensify the final look of the vehicle finish.

Carnauba Paste Wax is not a Dinosaur by any means. Since 1995, Victoria Wax has exceeded all requirements of the United States and Canada for low VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) requirements. As for California's and other States strict VOC compliance, we have exceeded their high standards to the point of being completely exempt.

Bare Hand Waxing! Applying wax with the bare hands is not a new technique, it was used in the 60’s, and I suspect that it had been used by people at sometime or another over the last 100 years. It just produces some of the best possible looks and protection. Wax is at its very best when the wax from the original jar or tin is in that same concentrations. The hands are non-porous and no carrier solvents will be absorbed. What is in the jar or tin is now in the proper concentrations on the finish. Bare hand waxing will benefit any wax-based product by any manufacture. In the right hands it could make the difference between a good job and an excellent job. If you are like me, waxing the finish is the final step and the most rewarding. One coat of wax is not enough and ten coats seems reasonable. We are all guilty of over using wax applicators to the point that we have to wring out the liquid solvent collected every once in a while to continue getting a good mix. And most of us seal the moist wax applicator back in the jar or tin to be ready for the next round of waxing. I am not saying that any one particular technique is for everyone, I just know what I like and find rewarding. It is hard resisting going back to the container for more wax, but just keep on spreading and massaging in what you have. One of the biggest problems with using a wax applicator is that they can easily grab a sharp piece of sand and it can become embedded in the applicator. Without knowing it that sharp piece of rock is moved all over the surface starting what is later known as swirl marks. With the bare hands application that same piece of sharp sand would be detected and removed almost instantly. Swirl marks are a fact of life, but they can be reduced considerably.

Durability

Carnauba wax and manufactured car waxes are loaded with U.V. blockers and absorbers. Natural and man-made. Both types have a threshold that once that threshold is met there is no more U.V. protection available and must be replenished with the help of humans. There are many people stating different lengths of durability that they have received. Everybody is right, no one is wrong.

It all depends on the environment that the surface is bombarded from. Most waxes don't last very long during the long hot days of summer. What burns most waxes off fast is the amount of intense exposure to the sun. Most cars are in motion most of the time which spreads out the UV damage to all areas with less intensity. But park or store a car in the same spot and same direction day after day / week after week during the summer and most if not all of the protection will be gone in days. Think of a boat that has been tied up in a slip at the marina for a few years and not being maintained. In the northern hemisphere the south facing half of the boat has the surface chalked up and dull, vinyl plastic is cloudy rust coloured and cracked. But the north facing side of the boat is pristine just as the day it was new. Spread the UV damaging rays around by changing the directions vehicles are parked or stored. If not you will have to protect that one side each and every week during summer.

Victoria Wax can get about 6 months of protection in a mild climate between Fall and Spring. That is because there just isn't that much damaging rays hitting the surface. In the dead heat of Summer and the car is not mobile about one month is all that you can expect. We tell people with daily drivers about two months is good, but you still have to watch and recognize if there is problems with UV saturation. Car Covers are a good thing to have and there is nothing wrong with putting extra timely coats of protection on those areas that are at risk more often.

Limited Warranty Not everyone has the same tastes in products and how they perform, but Victoria Wax has a high performance standard that must be attained. If you feel that you are not getting the same results as others are getting and you have done more than your share of suggestions to resolve the issues, please contact us. It may not be you or your technique that is the problem. Victoria Wax just may have made a mistake during formulation of the product. Anything is possible, we are human too. With 17 different raw materials use in the making of a wax, anything could innocently of happened by putting too much in or not enough or not adding it in at all. We do spot testing with each batch by dipping a finger in the batch and spreading on a test bed then buffing once. But that is in a controlled environment not in the real world. Again, contact us if you feel frustrated with any of our products. Our waxes are not 'foolproof' products, under certain conditions they need adjustments like a fine precision instrument. We would like for everyone to see what we see when using a Victoria Wax paste wax or our other car care products.